February 28, 2007

Episode XVII: Big Screen and Small Football

(06/02/2007)

First weekend of February brought me lots of wonderful experiences. Good old tried system says: work on the weekdays, have fun on the weekend. More or less, that is what I practice here in Kaohsiung.

I have paid a visit to Hong Kong at the end of the year 2006. Then I have become amateur of that place. Famous from Hong Kong is cinema, and I personally found it fascinating and brilliant. After coming back to Taiwan I am trying to follow some directors and actors that I became fond of.
According to that plan, with the company of my good Taiwanese friend, lately I have seen two wonderful films that will stay in my mind for a longer while. I simply love how do Hong Kong filmmakers show their city, with all its lights, immensity and ambiguity.

What I truly enjoy in Kaohsiung about going to cinema, is a variety of venues to choose. To make it clear, there are first-round cinemas and second-round cinemas. Maybe it is obvious, but in Poland we do not distinguish cinemas in such a way. Coming back to Taiwan, so-called first-round shows newest premiers and asks for pretty big ransom for it. Usually free drink is served or some wee souvenir given. It is quality.

Yet what I prefer are second-round cinemas. The reason could be, in my home-country there is no choice like that. Here, price is usually three or at least two times cheaper than the first-round. Films arrive few months after their original premier, but I do not mind waiting three months. What difference does it make?

There are some disadvantages like rubbish all around the place, people talking on their cell-phones or sometimes even lack of sharpness on the screen, but frankly speaking I do not care. It gives the place an atmosphere and that counts.

My favourite venue is, famous around the city, He-Chuen cinema, located in the neighbourhood of 2nd Dashun Road. This one is a bargain, offering two different titles for something like 60 NT dollars, which is better than cheap. Calculation is easy for me.

Apart from having fantastic time, being entertained by great films, I also have found another occasion to spend some spare time, which is playing football, better known in Taiwan as soccer. Fact is, far more popular here are baseball and basketball, so to practice football I had to meet some foreigners.
Opportunity came all of a sudden and I just found myself running around after the ball, on the school pitch near to Boai Road, accompanied by folks from England, Ireland, Canada, United States, South Africa and Salvador. It was amazing and I am absolutely looking forward to having more regular chances like that.

Working in office environment is pretty easy to end with the sedentary life style, which definitely I do not want to be familiar with and I think none of us should be. It is time to move!

February 15, 2007

Episode XVI: Summit, Wall and Rail

(30/01/2007)

Unexpected drop of temperature and gloomy weather kept me from reaching the summit of the Kaohsiung city on the last week of January.

As a city peak and its proudest spot I consider the top of the Sky Tower, the 85-storey-structure that climbs up far over 300 meters. Before the completion of 101 Taipei tower, it was the tallest building in whole Taiwan. Unavoidably it became a symbol of the ocean capital, of the Kaohsiung city.

Apart from the fact that opportunity to fulfill one of my goals was not given to me this time, I have visited some other significant places.
As an inhabitant of Tsoying district, northern part of the city, where Lotus Pond is located, I felt obliged to see old Fengshan city wall, which was raised almost 200 years ago. Gate is square and heavy. Fortification, built from red brick is at least two meters wide, with the space for walking, on the top.

After I have experienced the taste of the past, I met the sign of the future, which is, as well, located in Tsoying district. It looks like an airport but it's not. Actually I have found it accidentally, while I was continuing my walk through nearby indigenous plant garden.

I have crossed the park, passed the spot where we played the flying disc with my friends few weeks earlier and got to the garden's fence. Strolling along the wire I arrived to the place where huge impressive freeways were flying high above my head. It had cleared up and aura was friendly. And there it was. Tall as a tower block, packed as a tanker, shining and glittering, incomparably vaster, brand new Tsoying station.
Newest baby of technological development of Taiwan, high speed railway, connecting north and south and offering extraordinary fast transport between distant destinations in approximately 90 minutes.

We can travel at 300 kmph but does it mean we will have no chance to slow down and see how everything else goes by, while sitting on the bench in the park, somewhere in the north of Kaohsiung?
I hope not. Access to the newest inventions is only available for a small part of a society. It will definitely not change their lives. Probably some of them will never have an occasion to experience it.

But that’s how life looks like. And that’s why I love it.

February 01, 2007

Episode XV: Sun and Space

(23/01/2007)

During the weekend I have decided to visit some new places across the city as often as having some spare time. After the period of five months of my stay in Taiwan, there are still many locations in Kaohsiung that I did not see. It's pretty easy to waste time by watching television or wondering around the shopping mall, but I don't want to do that if I have an occasion to go and find some new interesting spots and venues in such an exotic place as Taiwan.
On Saturday I have paid a visit to National Science and Technology Museum on Jiouru Road. I was surprised because I found it almost empty and very quiet. As I already know something about Asia, I was expecting crowds of people who want to take a look at the fighter airplane, try the “moonwalker” or learn something about Taiwan's industry and its most famous products like computers, clothes or scooters. But I was wrong and actually I felt more comfortable in such an environment, where I don't need to force my way to go through.

Interior of museum is impressive. Massive spaces and long corridors make you feel like visiting an airport, not a spot of cultural interest. Most of the visitors were children accompanied by parents, because that's a great place for those young folks. You can push the button or turn the handle and learn how physics, gravity or electricity does work. It's gaining knowledge through experiencing the phenomenon. That's a wonderful lesson.

Then, on Sunday, to ventilate my mind, I went to pier 2, also known as pier of art. There, I have found what I was looking for. Wide, spacious and noiseless location, just at the harbour. That's a place, where modern performers of south Taiwan can exhibit their artistic visions.
I have seen some colourful and surprising sculptures and kind of theatre, where I imagine, independent young people enjoy being actors.

Sky was calmly blue, sun warm and kind, tranquil and vast area made me feel this specific pacifying mood. I felt even better, when I went for a walk along the pier. View of those huge used ships was striking. You could tell they have been through a lot, met some sinister waves and storms in their past. Its mildew could tell stories.

Finally, when I have stepped on the wooden terrace from where I faced the sight of the city, with sky-tower in the background and colossal yellow cranes in front of me, I felt the weight of the distance. Tons of surrounding air, city on my palm and heat falling from above. It was something stirring and solid.
Few blocks further, there was a humble in size but proud of its importance, tight and slender bright shape of cathedral. How many times I have been passing by and never stop to discover its secrets?

January 17, 2007

Episode XIV: Let Them Grow

Education system in my home-country Poland, has changed lately, in 1999. At the moment compulsory are: six-years-long primary school and three-years-long gymnasium, which finishes with national examination that gives the right to enter chosen secondary school.
Usually pupils are spending three years in secondary school, called lyceum, or four years in technical school that already gives specific profession, such as electrician, mechanic or, for example, geologist.

After secondary school and matriculation exam, comes time to go to high school, which is university or academy. Commonly, studies last from three to five years, ended with defense of final thesis and achieving a degree in exact field.

Master’s degree in Poland, is ordinarily qualified at the age of twenty-four. That’s just to tell you few details about how does it look like to go through education path in my country. Now I would like to focus on Taiwan.

I’m not an authority to discuss Taiwanese system itself, I can only comment its effects and results, as I see and meet them here everyday. First thing that made me reflect on this issue is relation between teacher and student. According to what I was said, student is supposed to listen, more than actually asking questions, which from my point of view was a basic way to gather knowledge and communicate with my professors in Poland.

On the other hand, that teaches respect, patience and proper manners. Unfortunately it sometimes brings a withdrawal in form of being afraid to make a mistake.

Taiwanese girl that studies English once said to me: “excuse me I won’t talk to you, I would be embarrassed of my weak linguistic skills”. That was not a good sign for her future, if I may suggest anything.

Other story is the amount of pressure that parents put on their youngsters to bring the best grades from school. Education, especially at the early stages, is about discovering kid’s potential and encouragement to learn and explore. Should never bear frustration and fear.

I had an occasion to watch Taiwanese children around ten-years-old. I need to admit they are smart, bright and able to pick up knowledge very fast. Teacher’s role is to make them enjoy interaction with the others and not let them become shy.To finish this almost serious episode, I would like to mark that Taiwanese people impress me, with costly efforts they make to secure their offspring’s education, welfare and future. It’s really something that should set an example to follow.

January 13, 2007

Episode XIII: International chemistry

(11/01/2007)

In the second week on January 2007 I had an extraordinary opportunity to meet, work and have fun with group of almost 20 Taiwanese people. My international friends from Italy, Japan, Russia, Germany and I, organized three-days-long series of meetings, discussions, brainstorming and sport activities for civil servants of Kaohsiung city.
Goals of our camp were: to learn about upcoming World Games and its disciplines, to meet and work with foreigners, to practice English and to have fun.

Goals fulfilled or not, I’m sure that we have produced some kind of chemistry between each other, which made us friends.

Taiwanese people are considered as those who will use the scooter to get to nearest 7-eleven, basically stay at home and watch television all the spare time and dislike physical effort.

If you have seen our bunch while we compete in three different sports, you would never say those things about Taiwanese people again. First of all it was aerobics which requires lots of energy and artistic invention. With great surprise and admiration we find out that one of the teams managed to perform acrobatic figure also known in aerobic terms as pyramid.

Later on we decided to try flying disc, so-called Frisbee. With the help of local champion we picked up some basic rules and moves. For all who have never tried this sport before I have to say: this is fun! It’s quite unbelievable how man can make this piece of flat plastic spin, fly and roll.

Third discipline we have challenged was climbing. To practice, we went to the climbing wall in the city centre where two friendly instructors showed us the secrets of this exciting sport. They also made it safe for all of us.

To reach the top is not that easy but I have to say that determination and will of our Taiwanese colleagues was outstanding. Other thing is they were not the youngest people which should meet some respect in terms of how much endurance climbing demands. It was a real lesson of maintaining the stamina.

Coming back to the sitting parts of the camp, we have found ways to express our ideas and thoughts with painting, drama, debate and speech. We tried to learn something new about other cultures and to take a look at some complex problems from different perspective.

I’m happy to say that those three days brought lots of positive experience, gave necessary feedback and showed the space for improvement for the future. It was not perfect but you have to start with something. Hopefully we will be able to continue with such activities in next six months.
At the end I would like to thank my companions Britta, Chiara, Nasima, Satoko and Rita for priceless help and support.

Big “ni-hao” goes to: Connie, David, Elaine, Fan Sin, Fanny, Frank, Jane, Jessica, Judy, King, Leon, Linda, Mary, Ron, Tom, Willy and Yuli. Take care my comrades!

Episode XII: End of period

(26/12/2006)

Using ice-hockey terms, I am just finishing my first period here in Kaohsiung. There are four months behind me and eight more to go. I would never expect things are going to happen in such a tempo. Really, I have a strong impression that I have arrived to Taiwan two weeks before. Literally there is no time for boredom or lack of activities.

What did I gain in those months apart from some weight, which is absolutely natural if living in a food paradise of Kaohsiung?
Definitely I am much more familiar with the city topography now, than three months ago for example. Wufu, Jhongshan, Minzu or Sanduo roads are not a mystery to me any more. It simply makes me feel comfortable. Traveling across the city is a pleasure now, not a question mark.

Everybody in the world knows than Mandarin is a difficult language to learn but I never thought it is so complicated when comes to phonetics and pronunciation. To find the correct tone is really hard and at the end all the people are expecting you, as a foreigner, to speak English, so what I’m always trying to debate is to order the tea I want. By the way, am I the only person in Kaohsiung that prefers hot tea to ice one? Sometimes I feel like a weirdo, when I meet an odd grin on the vendor’s face after I state that warm and hot are not the same thing.
As I have promised at the beginning of my Taiwanese adventure, I’m using chopsticks all the time here, except of only few occasions I was not able to do it and forced to find my old knife and fork. I got used to it pretty fine and it brings me pleasure when people tell me I operate them well.

Number of a wonderful Taiwanese people I have met in my first four months here, is outstanding. Everywhere I go I’m treated like someone who is important and welcomed. Such hospitality is very touching matter and I often feel like having no response to it, because I cannot offer the same that I’m offered. Maybe it’s true that Taiwanese people in general are a bit shy and timid, but I can bet if you have a friend in them, they will open their hearts and share the last bowl of rice with you.

Support, help and care shown to me during my stay is positively overwhelming and tremendous. I would never expect to be given so much warmth and attention. I will always remain a foreigner but an effort of my friends to make me feel like home is priceless and means so much to me that I cannot even find proper words to express it. All I can say is: thank you. Hope one day I can pay those favors back.
As the first period ends, year ends as well, what is the best occasion to summarize past twelve months. If next year will be as cheerful and successful as 2006, I will be the happiest person in the world, because many of my dreams came true. I wish the same to all of you.

Episode XI: Silent night

(19/12/2006)

Winter for real arrived to Kaohsiung in the third week of December. Now I can understand why people here wear very warm clothes, including hats, scarves and gloves. Frankly speaking, I was a bit surprised with such a harsh weather conditions. Strong winds and very cold evenings. I would never expect that on the tropic. Hopefully it will not last long because I already miss sunny mornings and kind light that touches my eyes and face every time I stare at the sky. I will welcome spring with open arms and heart.
Winter and Christmas time are inseparable things in Poland as in most of European countries I believe. It is like, Jon-chio Wuye-bin, Mid-autumn festival and moon-cakes here in Taiwan. Christmas tree occupies honorary spot in the main room of every home, where all the family gathers and celebrates those warm and happy days. It is always splendidly decorated with lights and glass balls.

Traditionally during Christmas Eve, on the 24th of December, in Polish house there should be twelve separate dishes on the table. Nowadays, not many people can afford that, but some still follow this unique custom. Common and expected dishes are mushroom soup, chicken broth or beetroot soup, fried fish, most popular is carp, also herring in cream and onions or simply in oil. Famous bigos, which is savory stew cabbage and meat. Pierogi – something that reminds dumplings.
Old beautiful Polish tradition says that there should be one extra plate on the Christmas table. It is waiting for so-called unexpected pilgrim who is supposed to knock at the door and ask for shelter. He should be greeted with all honesty. Disinterested help symbolizes Christian way of life, a sacrifice we are ready to make for the others.

In Taiwan, as a country where nine of ten people are Buddhist, Confucian or Taoist, society does not celebrate Christmas as I am used to do it. Decorations and presents are not the only things that make this time special and important. There will be no days off from work, but with my bunch of friends from all over the world, I will try to create the atmosphere which is going to make us feel like home a bit.
After the Christmas there will be only a few days left of the old year 2006. According to Chinese lunar calendar, it’s a year of the dog, which is a year of my birthday, to be honest. At the moment we are approaching a year of the pig. Hopefully 2007 is going to be very fortunate to all of you.

What can I add more? Don’t eat too much. Don’t drink too much. Be good to the others and remain passionate.

December 13, 2006

Episode X: Speech of the spirit

(12/12/2006)

If you live in southern Taiwan, there is a special place you should visit, no matter if you follow any religion or not. It is something more that just temples and monks. That place is Fo Guang Shan monastery, located about an hour ride by bus in direction north-east from Kaohsiung city.
I have been growing up in a society which is statistically Roman-Catholic in 95 percents. I am not very happy to admit that but have to say that Polish people are not very open-minded and tolerant to other worships and religions. This is one of the reasons why I want to learn as much as possible about Taiwanese customs and beliefs by visiting spots such as Fo Guang Shan.

The monastery is placed on a hill and it’s surrounded by walls. Whole area is impressive and there are enough attractions to stay there for at least half day.

My friends and I had a pleasure to meet a young Buddha monk at the main entrance just when we arrived to the monastery. He served to us as a guide for a next few hours. Answered countless number of our questions that could probably drive somebody else mad, but he was happy to explain everything to us and he did it with a smile on his face, what I really appreciate. Thank you Khedrup.

First thing that will visitor find exciting in Fo Guang Shan is an alley of hundreds white Buddha statues, arranged on both sides of the walk way. Every face and gesture is different, symbolizing a virtue or an attribute of Buddha. Later inside the monastery, cute and lovely figures of baby monks will be found in small gardens put between the temples and shrines.
All guests are treated with lunch which offers fantastic choice of vegetarian food, prepared accordingly to the old and special recipe, for centuries developed and improved by monks.

You should not leave Fo Guang Shan before you climb to the top of the hill where great and tall gold Buddha monument had been built. Believe me, you will be pleased with the scenery. Whole place is filled with beautiful plants, flowers, trees and spots like wishing ponds and bamboo forest, so do I need to tell you more to make you visit this extraordinary destination.
Hospitality of the people met in monastery is something really touching. Every visitor or pilgrim is welcomed and will not be refused a shelter. Most of the monks are eradiating with their smiles and friendly appearance. An atmosphere is peaceful and relaxed.

I would like to say that I’m not a Buddhist myself and most probably will never become but places such as Fo Guang Shan I always visit with highest respect, interest and pleasure.

Episode IX: Deep Blue

(05/12/2006)

Kaohsiung people should be proud of their city. Love River, in the past also known as a smelly river, was cleaned. Now serves as a symbol of the city and is a wonderful place to go for a walk. It’s a great thing but I mean something else. I mean the fact that Kaohsiung is the sixth biggest container port in the world. Unbelievable is an amount of goods that go through it. It’s hard to imagine.
I believe that harbour is very important to the city. Mainly because local government plans lots of investments, modernizations and development projects. This part of the city is always under construction at the moment and will be great when accomplished. Entertainment area with many attractions and venues to spend time at. Also other useful facilities that will bring some learning opportunities to the people of Kaohsiung. There are a lot of things happening here.

By the way, last week I had a pleasure to visit Kaohsiung harbour while having relaxing boat ride during warm and sunny noon time. To see all those big tankers and other cargo ships was highly exciting and truly interesting. Their size is impressive. Long as a football pitch. Wide as the widest road in Taipei. Heavy as steel and iron. How those giants can sail and not sink? I know it’s a question that small boy would ask, but things like this will always be a mystery for me, although I’m not a small boy anymore!
Seeing the names of the countries on the sterns of the ships made me imagine untold adventure stories that happen onboard and during travels across the oceans.

Sea is mesmerizing. It’s hard for me not to look at it and just remain silent for a moment. I wish the waves embrace me with its merciless and humming arms. Their melody and voice make a man follow it into the blue depth, in pursue of the unknown miracle of the ocean.

As the part of the Kaohsiung port, Cijin Island is a place worth of paying a visit. Sweet barbeque squid is not a thing to miss there. Cijin beach does not compete with Kenting beach, but Cijin lighthouse offers a wonderful viewing point. Definitely it’s a right place to go and take some photographs of the city.
If we need some exercises, why not to ride a bicycle around the island. It’s easier than in the city because of a smaller number of the cars and scooters on the streets.

Kaohsiung is the city of an ocean. Let the ocean to ourselves. It’s on our side.

Episode VIII: My day

(28/11/2006)

Usually from Monday to Friday, when my watch shows noon, I go to eat my lunch. Before I first came to Taiwan I have never eaten lunch because we don’t have this custom in Poland. We have breakfast, dinner around two or three o’clock and supper around seven or eight. Eating lunch in Kaohsiung for me is difficult a bit. It takes more time for me to get hungry after breakfast than just till 12 o’clock. I eat but most of the time it’s because all the people do, not because I really need it.

In City Hall there’s a nice place you can have a decent breakfast and lunch. It’s on the 11th floor, so I use an elevator to get there. In the morning I often have a toast sandwich with immortal peanut butter and jam.
Funny thing is, the lady who sells those toasts, recognizes me. She must think I’m American or Canadian I guess, so she always speaks English to me when I come there. I know she tries to be nice but I also make an effort saying: “Tzao”, “Xie-xie” and “Tzay-tzien”. She will always reply: “Good morning”, “Thank you” and “Good bye”. Who’s Taiwanese and who’s foreign in the end?

Lunch time comes I go to buffet, my favorite place to figure out some great meal. I like buffet for a simple reason. I can take a close look at the food. It’s organized in sections of vegetables, fish, meat, noodles and so on and so forth. Lately, my best pick are eggplants, tomatoes with eggs, fried pumpkin, sweet potatoes and spicy tofu. I prefer mixed rice of different kinds to regular white one. It’s healthier and tastes better.
Another new thing to me in Taiwan is a naptime. People don’t sleep at work in Poland. There is simply no break. You are supposed to keep working for eight hours and you can relax at home, not in the office. To have a nap in an Asian country is reasonable in my opinion because of high temperatures that make you feel tired after few hours. I’m sure you can work better and more effective if you relax a bit in the meantime.

Around seven o’clock I usually look for my dinner. Favorite place is a street stall with variety of tofu, vegetables and dry noodles. I enjoy watching the vendor preparing my order. Cutting, boiling, putting spices. All those ordinary things bring me fun.
If I like to prepare something for myself, I go to the shop and buy some fresh piece of tuna fish, wazabi and Soya sauce and great sashimi is ready. It’s fantastic, especially for the person who tried raw fish for the first time three months ago. I cannot live without it now. – “Chia-ba-bwey?” – “Chia-ba!”

Episode VII: Yesterday and Tomorrow

(21/11/2006)

Somewhere last week I went to capital city of Taiwan. As the name says it is in the north of the country. Airplane flight takes approximately 40 minutes to take off from Kaohsiung and hit the Taipei airport. It’s about the same time I used to spend on the bus, on my way to city center, from Tsoying District. Time and space is really flying up there.
First impression of Taipei was pretty disappointing because of the rain. I couldn’t visit much, so stayed at friend’s family, drinking oo-long tea and eating muffins. On the other hand, there was not enough time to go anywhere.

Than we went to the hotel where representatives of my home-country Poland, were celebrating national day of independence. We joined the party. One lady treated us with great piano piece of the most famous Polish composer Frederik Shopen. Audience was delighted.
I found speaking Polish again, after 3 months without it, as something strange. I tried to squeeze some words from me but it sounded like I haven’t been to Poland for 10 years. I completely switched myself to English lately and it’s more natural to me at the moment. I didn’t feel very comfortable with my Polish at first. Thanks to one Polish girl I met recently. I had an opportunity to practice a bit.

Straight from the hotel we moved to the airport again to catch our flight. Never before I went to one place and came back on the plane during the same day. Fact I’m a little bit afraid of flying made me feel anxious. You can imagine, it was a day full of attractions to me.

After visiting Taipei I know now why Kaohsiung needs its MRT so badly. It’s much more convenient and environment friendly than cars. Instead of thousands scooters, underground will serve as a main mean of transport in the city. Hopefully it’s going to be launched in the nearest months. I keep my fingers crossed. It’s our common cause I think.
After the aim is accomplished Kaohsiung will be much easier to move through. Foreigners like me will have fewer problems with reaching some parts of the city. Future looks promising. Keep it real friends.

Episode VI: Going South

(14/11/2006)

Pack of my international friends and me decided to go to visit the most famous and the biggest beach in southern Taiwan – Kenting.
We were aware that it is winter time now in Taiwan and temperatures are pretty uncomfortable and maybe it is not the best moment to go and enjoy a swim in the sea, but try to explain to Canadian or Polish lad, that winter is about 20 centigrade and you should wear a wooly hat and a jacket.

As I said before, Taiwanese winter is like late summer in Poland, so there’s no way to frighten me with the weather conditions in November on the Tropic of Cancer.

First thing that struck us after arriving to Kenting, was a smashing wind, whiffing like a typhoon, blowing away our helmets and silencing our scooter’s engines. Riding a scooter on your own can be dangerous if you don’t weight much. You can simply fly off. Better find a company to get your vehicle balanced.
Wind made our eyes water, our ears deaf and our legs unstable. We haven’t seen any objects flying but it was close to that. Especially when we went to the great cliff, where wind halted words in our mouths, not letting them come out. We felt like visiting another planet. The light turned orange, our sight went out of focus. This experience will remain in our minds for a long time, that’s guaranteed.

On the beach we were welcomed with a small sand storm that widely lashed our bodies and covered our belongings. Big and fresh waves brought a delighting joy when we drop into the sea. Salt water annoyed our eyes and noses with a strong savor. Struggling against heavy waves reminded me the times I have spent with my father at the Polish seaside many years ago. He always used to call me to get back to lie on the towel for a while. As a kid I was fascinated with the power of an element. My notion did not change much since those careless days.

Except the beach, Kenting offers a brilliant National Park, where visitors are attracted with many gloomy and deep caves, forest of palms and other trees and viewing tower that gives a splendid panorama of the area.
After two days spent outside of the city it was good to come back to Kaohsiung to start another exciting week. Hope you have as such motivation as I do. Cheers!

Episode V: Winter time

(08/11/2006)

Did all of you already buy warm wooly hats, cotton gloves, jackets and scarves? Hey! It’s winter time in Taiwan. We have to be prepared for a few months of tough weather. Maybe you will not believe me but I’m telling you. Temperature in Kaohsiung, during cold weeks can drop to freezing 15 centigrade. No joking, it’s serious. Beware!
This winter in my home-country Poland, was really cold. They say it was the toughest winter in half of century. -20 or even -30 centigrade. Everything was stone-cold frozen. Staying outside made you hurt after 10 minutes. That’s one of the reasons I came to Kaohsiung to witness winter with no snow, no frost, no mud, and no minus temperatures.

But if you enter a clothing shop, you will have an impression that winter is going to be raw. All kinds of jackets, anoraks, coats, armed with wooly collars and hoods, warm caps, hats, drawers and socks are available. But where are you going to wear it? Are you planning a trip to Himalaya Mountains?
Actually, winter time in Taiwan is like late summer in Poland. It’s pretty funny to see people wearing jackets on the beach while water is fine to go for a swim. Any weather below 20 centigrade is considered here as very uncomfortable, annoying and strict. You should ask my friend from Canada what does he think about that.

Tropic areas are characteristic because of its stable and predictable nature. Annual amplitude is relatively low. Let’s exaggerate and say around 17 centigrade. In Poland it could be 40. Showers and typhoons appear in regular order on the tropic. Humidity in August makes people sweat even if remain motionless.

Tropic of Cancer crosses an island of Formosa. It exactly goes through Hua-lien County on the east and Chaiyi County on the west of the country. I think I will go there and take a photo next time when I visit my fellow in Chaiyi. Weather in Taiwan allows people to play outdoor sports during the whole year. It promotes exercises, healthy life-style, open-air activities, social gatherings and night parties. In Poland, for example football league usually has a winter break that lasts more that 3 months. To be the best you need to have the conditions to practice all year long I believe. Maybe that somehow explains poor performance of Polish sportsman on an international level.

To summarize briefly, Taiwanese winter is still summer for me, for young lad from Eastern Europe.

Episode IV: The wheels roll

(31/10/2006)

They say Kaohsiung is a city of million scooters. I think it is impossible to count them all, but probably this number is accurate. At least government’s website says that. It is absolutely amazing because city’s population is just around 1.5 million.
According to the statistics, air pollution problem does not surprise me any more. No clear and blue sky on the photographs will be found. Forget the postcards. They are using computers to put colours on it.

We all know that keeping one million motorcycles in such a small area is not environment friendly. We also know it is not healthy, because after we get a scooter, we will always drive, even to the closest shop, just around the corner.

I found out that while driving in Kaohsiung, you must be extremelly careful. Somewhere there will always be a young person, driving with no helmet and talking on the mobile phone, speeding and overtaking every vehicle possible. Left side of the street is also good to drive for them. Does not matter if somebody is coming in their way.

Don't ask about the red light. Red and green are very similar so why bother making way for the others. If it's necessery, okey we stop, but not always. It depends.
Other thing are taxis. They behave like all city belongs to them. No laws and rules are important and respected. Just take the customer, reach the destination and make money. If somebody gets killed while being overtaken by taxi, we are sorry but that's life.

On the other hand having a scooter in Kaohsiung is really convinient and comfortable. City is big and you can easily waste one hour on the bus to get from one place to another. If you want to save your time, motorcycle is the only alternative. It's cheap and fast.

There are some places that you can see few houndred bikes parked. First thing you have to do after getting one is learn your plate number by heart. You will be in trouble if you forget it. Most of the scooters look almost the same.
Riding a scooter on a wide, empty street makes you feel good and happy. You cut the air like a sharp knife. Feel the air that touches your skin and face. You don't want to stop. You want to fly and take a look at the face of earth from bird's perspective. Enjoy the moment. This is now.

Episode III: Exploring the country

(17/10/2006)

During five days off, including the Moon Festival and the 10th of October, I had my first chance to visit some other cities of Taiwan. Direction: north from Kaohsiung.

Before the trip started, few of my friends and me enjoyed great barbecue on Friday. We ate like we are usually able to eat during the whole week. Nobody left the party hungry or thirsty. Once again, Taiwanese hospitality made us fell like home. According to the duty, all of us tasted fantastic flavor of the moon-cake.

We have witnessed beautiful firework display that I can only compare to what people in Poland do on the 31st of December, on the New Years Eve.
On Saturday our exciting trip began. At the beginning it was only my friend and me, but after all it turned to be a group of four. Let me explain.

We took the train from Kaohsiung to Chaiyi, where my friend’s friend lives with his family. City seems to be much smaller than Kaohsiung. Not that crowded and polluted. We spent our lovely evening in fine sea-food restaurant, drinking French red wine. Yes, we liked it a lot.
Sunday morning, now three of us, depart to Taichung to meet another friend. We were invited to lunch with her parents. It was an indescribable feast. We have been celebrating with a bottle of whisky, so my friends, You can imagine what’s happened after few “gambey!”

To clear our minds we went for a bicycle ride outside of Taichung, to visit the Shu-Kang dam and bridges destroyed by earthquake in September 1999. We were expecting peaceful and quiet place, but we found traffic, characteristic for Kaohsiung’s Mingzhu road.

It’s really difficult to find a place in Taiwan with no people in it. I’m not even sure about Yu-Shan, the highest mountain of the island.

Returning to the trip, in the evening we went to traditional, modest and pleasurable barbecue at our friend’s grandma’s house. We discovered how hard it is to eat the crab fast. We have filled our stomachs, only after focusing more on bamboo.

The atmosphere was inexpressibly kind and enjoyable. We were treated like family members, no different to the others.
The last part of our beautiful trip was city of Tainan. Confucius Temple welcomed us warm. I was delighted with its relaxed aura and mysterious scent. No doubt, it is a perfect place for meditations and reflections.

No visitor to Taiwan is allowed to leave before trying so-called stinky tofu. It has got a strong flavor which I found really toothsome. Maybe it’s not the easiest thing to eat, but definitely worth of giving a try.

On the double ten, the 95th anniversary of establishing of Republic of China, our gang went to join celebrating crowd, gathered at the Kaohsiung’s Love River. The music was very loud and ideal to dance to. DJs were doing everything, to move the people, to make them party, by squeezing decibels from the speakers. I was astonished, a few thousand people was staring at the small group of dancers on stage. Doing nothing, not even moving their legs. It looked like they are not happy enough to dance. Fortunately it didn’t bother our celebration of Taiwan’s birthday.

Episode II: World of Sensations

(03/10/2006)

Asian food is one of those things that foreigner will be immediately impressed with, after arriving to this part of the world. Anybody who is sensitive and passionate about flavors, smells and art of preparing meals must recognize Asia as a place to be. I have no doubts about it.

To be honest with you, dear listeners, I need to say that Polish cuisine seems to me, as very poor and limited comparing to variety of choices I found here, in Taiwan. Let me tell you how traditional Polish dinner look like.
Usually we have a soup first. It is served in flat and much bigger bowls that are commonly used here. Most popular are: tomato soup, cucumber soup and cabbage soup. It can be pretty thick and fat, depends on whose grandmother is cooking. Main dish is often a piece of pork or beef with potatoes and boiled carrot or green peas.

People following vegetarian diet are facing many problems finding proper places to eat that kind of food in Poland. But fortunately it’s not an issue in Taiwan.

I was absolutely delighted after my first visit to a restaurant in Kaohsiung. People who are taking care of me took me there on the day of my arrival. Number of served goods was astonishing. I can’t even recall all the things I tried. I just know I enjoyed it a lot. Soup, rice, vegetables, fish, fruits. All, so much different to what I know from Europe.
Taiwanese cuisine presents wide selection of spices I have never heard about and tried before. Everyday I discover some new tastes, textures and flavors. It’s a fascinating travel through the world of sensations.

It will probably sound like a banal to you but I really like an idea of sharing food on the table. In Poland we always eat on separate plates. We don’t look at somebody’s food. Just eat what you have ordered. Having a meal in Taiwan is much more social activity. It’s simply easier to get closer to each other if you share the food.

In my opinion, diet based on fresh vegetables, fruits and sea-food is healthier than greasy, monotonous and full of hydro-carbons Polish or British cuisine. Concluding, there are not many better places for food then south of Taiwan. That’s another reason I’m happy to be here.
According to my one-year-long stay in Kaohsiung I made a commitment to myself. It’s not very serious but still demands some sacrifice. I will try to use chopsticks during my next 12 months here. OK, unless a meal really requires using fork and knife.

Episode I: First day in Kaohsiung

(26/09/2006)

My name is Adam. I come from Inowroclaw. It's a small city in the center of Poland with 80,000 inhabitants. Located 200 kilometers west from Polish capitol - Warsaw. Inowroclaw used to be well-known from salt mines which had been closed some time ago. Now there are many sanatoriums, spas and big glass factory. Inowroclaw is my hometown but I have spent last 5 years in city of Torun, where my beloved university is.
Torun is famous for being home to great astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus who provided the first modern formulation of a heliocentric theory of the solar system in 1543.
I have met my best friends in Torun and memories from that place will never fade away and will forever stay in my heart.

I've got graduated from university in July 2006. My field is journalism and media. I'm very passionate about Polish literature, movies from 70's, hard rock music and football, better known here as soccer. After my first 4 weeks in Asia I've already started to follow baseball.
I have spent some time abroad, before coming to Kaohsiung, but never outside of Europe. I have been to Scotland, Spain, Italy, Germany, France, Czech, Slovakia, Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia and England. My favorite places abroad are Glasgow (in southern Scotland) and Valencia (in eastern Spain). Both cities are ports, exactly like Kaohsiung but not that big and crowded.

Why did I come here? Because I am taking part in the project held between Kaohsiung City Government and international student's organization - AIESEC. I'm a trainee among 3 other young people from Japan, Russia and Italy. My place of work here, is Information Office in City Hall. That also means I'm spending time in Kaohsiung Municipal Film Archive and here, at Kaohsiung Broadcasting Station as branches of my home-department. I'm willing to stay in Taiwan for one year.

My air travel to Taiwan took around 19 hours including visits to 4 different airports. Warsaw, Frankfurt, Hong Kong and finally Kaohsiung in the afternoon of August 29th 2006.

Immediately after I have left the airport I was struck by humidity at the level I've never experienced before. Highway seemed to be a hot pan, with me on it like a piece of tofu. Taxi driver chewing betelnut and smiling at the same time. Everything looked much different at this part of the world. At least for me. Surrounding people, architecture, plants, even sunlight. I felt like I was discovering something absolutely new and mysterious. Like beginning a new life.
Every day here is a blessing. Every day I learn something and gather lifetime experience. It's still just my first month here but I already know I will never forget it. And I hope people here will not forget me.

If you like to read some of my film reviews, which I have written for Kaohsiung Film Archive click here.